With a name that wouldn’t be out of place in the popular fantasy series Game of Thrones the beautiful island of Brava in Cape Verde could easily be used as a film location.
Looking across from neighbouring island Fogo, Brava has the most amazing sunsets, and it only seems like a giant’s step away. Some might say it’s so close you can swim to it. But don’t be deceived by this as it’s pretty challenging to get to and off that tiny island.
It used to have an airport, but just like Santo Antao, battering winds prevented a lot of planes from landing on Brava and a lack of funds has turned the airstrip into a desolate, rundown area.
So, the only way to get to Brava is by ferry and unlike Santo Antao, it’s not always a smooth ferry crossing. Strong winds and choppy seas are why the crew hand out these wonderfully coloured purple puke bags, as soon as you board. But don’t let this put you off – as once you’ve arrived you don’t want to go anywhere else anymore. Just ask the locals on Fogo and without exception, they’ll all wax lyrical about Brava.
The small port of Furna where you arrive has a natural harbour and there’s only one way out. In fact, there are only two properly paved roads on Brava, and you’ll always have to take the zigzag road up to Vila Nova Sintra first. From the biggest town on the island, you either head to Faja d’Agua on the west coast or inland to Cachaco.
One of the first things you’ll notice when you walk beautiful tree-lined avenue in Vila Nova Sintra is the scent of the hibiscus trees and how peaceful the small little square in the centre is. The whole of the island is a fragrant place as there are lots of wildflowers everywhere. It could though, do with a bit more rain than normal. The last few years have been particularly hard on the island and the drought has hit it hard.
Getting around is very easy, you hop on an aluguer (local minibuses popular with locals), organise a taxi, or hitch a ride on a passing flatbed truck that occasionally pass you on the quiet roads.
Another option would be to explore the island on foot. If you have a good map (which will provide when you’re visiting Brava), you can’t really get lost. Just make sure that you have a transfer arranged at the other end, or be prepared to retrace your steps.
There are only a few hotels on Brava and it’s the same with restaurants, as they’re not always open. You can therefore either eat at your hotel or you have to tell the restaurant that you will be coming at a certain time and what you would like to eat. Life is definitely a lot slower on Brava than on the other Cape Verdean islands.
If this appeals to you then I would recommend at least a three-night stay in Vila Nova Sintra, to make the most of your time on Brava. Combine this with Fogo and Santiago and you’ll have a guaranteed fantastic experience on these southern Cape Verdean islands.
