The Details
We’re often asked to name our favourite region of Portugal. It’s an almost impossible question to answer: how do you choose between the wild beaches of the Atlantic Algarve and the high granite mountain of the Serra da Estrela, or the vast, rural plains of Alentejo and the ostentatious palaces of Lisbon and Sintra?
The beautifully varied landscapes of Portugal are as different as chalk and cheese, and yet the north might just have the edge. The coasts and mountains are here, as are the rural idylls and the historic cities – and it’s easier in the north to combine town with the country, castles and convents with olive farms and vineyards; modernity with tradition. The Douro River has always been the lifeblood of the region. At its mouth, the river famously divides the sister-cities of Porto and Vila Nova da Gaia – the start point for your exploration of the north.
Porto’s historic quarter is lively melange of old and new, with medieval, Manueline and modern-day buildings all vying for a share of the limited space, and its restaurants bring together the best of the region’s seasonal food and wine. On the opposite, south bank of the Douro, Vila Nova da Gaia’s old industrial riverfront has been transformed into a living museum – a celebration of the country’s most-famous export: port wine.
Upstream, the river connects the finished product with its source in the beautiful vineyards of the Douro Valley. Away from the city, you’ll find that life moves at a more sedate pace, and is as dependent today on wine production as it has been for countless generations. The narrow terraces and steep topography of the land still dictates that grapes are harvested by hand. Manual labour preserves the heritage of the wine, whilst modern technology ensures its quality.
Driving north, you’ll see the gentle contours of the Douro Valley giving way to the rugged mountains of the Tras-os-Montes. The granite peaks of the Serra do Alvao rise above dense forests and river valleys, and water becomes the dominant force in the landscape. The Olo River crashes down a broken rock face at Fisgas de Ermelo, forming one of the largest waterfalls in Portugal – a dramatic reminder that while the Douro may be known for wine, the landscapes which surround it are shaped as much by water as they are by viniers’ hands.
Portugal was arguably shaped more by its first king, Dom Afonso Henrique, than by water or winemakers. You’ll spend four nights in his first home, his first capital, the medieval city of Guimaraes – also known as the ‘Cradle of Portugal’, where the country was born and raised. As the crow flies, you’re no distance at all from the Douro Valley, but you’ve made an important move: from port wine country to vinho verde country, where Portugal’s effervescent green wines are as popular here as her fortified varieties. You’ll meet the small-scale producers creating wines which reflect both the character of the land and their own meticulous approach: new generation hoping to shape the future of Portuguese wine.
