Northern Portugal

Discover Northern Portugal

It’s not really a phrase that rings true today, but there’s certainly an argument to say that Europe’s tourism spotlight has switched its focus from the capital Lisbon to the cities of the north. And with good reason: the city of Porto is an engaging, bustling 21^st century metropolis – a mélange of medieval, Manueline, and modern-day architecture. It shouldn’t work but somehow it does; UNESCO agree, and the buildings in its historic quarter are now protected. Its impressive bridges are a visible record of the evolution of innovative engineering, marking the point at which the majestic Douro River meets the Atlantic Ocean.

Dig a little deeper and you’ll find that Porto doesn’t sit in isolation – it’s part of a co-dependent triangle: a triumvirate whose lifeblood is port wine. Porto sits on the north bank of the river, whilst its sister-city, Vila Nova da Gaia, occupies the south. Porto needs Gaia and Gaia needs Porto – and thanks to port wine, they both need the Douro Valley.

The Douro is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. The Romans planted their first vines here around 150 BC – the Swabians, the Visigoths and the Moors followed suit. Henry of Burgundy, the father of Dom Afonso I, Portugal’s first king, is said to have introduced the Pinot Noir grape to the Douro in the 11^th century. Confirming the influence of port wine on the national character is centuries old, the region’s farmers rechristened the grape Tinta Francisca, claiming it as their own, and Portuguese obstinacy was born.

Prior to 1887, the river was the superhighway connecting Porto, Gaia and the Douro Valley. Wooden Rabelo boats ran the gauntlet from Pinhao and Peso da Regua, their precious cargoes of new wine in danger of being lost to the turbulent, fast-flowing waters of the old Douro. The new Douro is a much calmer beast, thanks to the five impressive dams which were constructed in the 20^th century. All too late for the captains of the rabelos: their way of life ended with the arrival of the railway at the end of the 19^th century.

The railway was quickly superseded by the road, and both the train journey and the drive are now considered two of the most beautiful routes in Europe. The Linha do Douro is a heritage railway line in all but name: its vintage diesel locomotives and antiquated rolling stock are a result of under-investment and are all the more charming for it, whilst the meandering highways and byways which criss-cross the region are coveted by cyclists and drivers alike for their striking scenery.

Whilst Porto and the Douro Valley are world famous worldwide for port wine, the neighbouring Entre-Douro-e-Minho region is less well known outside of Portugal. It’s an area which sits ’between the Douro and Minho’ rivers, and is celebrated for a light, floral white wine known as vinho verde. The ‘verde’ in its name translates as ‘green’ but this doesn’t refer to the colour of the wine. Some producers say it’s the green of the landscape, which is quite a contrast to the barren-beauty of the Douro’s stoney vineyards. Others claim it’s the sense of the wine being ‘naïve’, as it’s a very young wine, hardly aged at all – the grapes are often harvested before they fully ripen, imparting a tangy, citrus flavour.

Heading north, Highway 103 will bring you to the Peneda-Geres National Park: a protected habitat for Portugal’s golden eagle population, native species of red squirrels and roe deer, and the endangered Iberian wolf. For active families who enjoy hiking, kayaking, and wild swimming, the rugged rivers valleys of Geres are a playground waiting to be discovered.

For urban explorers and lovers of history, the old Roman city of Braga was founded during the reign of Cesar Augusta (27BC-14AD) and was named ‘Bracara Augusta’ in his honour. Modern-day urban growth is mostly responsible for the discovery and preservation of the city’s ancient Roman landmarks: the villa at Domus da Escola Velha da Se, the Termas Romans do Alto da Cividade baths and the Fonte do Idolo.

Santa Maria de Braga is often cited as the first cathedral to be built in Portugal – in truth, it actually predates the existence of the country and was consecrated in 1089 when Braga was part of the Kingdom of Leon. Today’s cathedral is an impressive mix of Moorish, Gothic, Manueline and Baroque architecture, as Braga’s high-status in the Roman Catholic church inspired generations of Portuguese royalty to make their mark on the cathedral.  

Braga’s most-famous landmark is Bom Jesus do Monte – the baroque Catholic monument on the summit of Mount Espinho. The monte has been an important destination for pilgrims since the 15^th century – the basilica and its zig-zagging portico staircase were constructed in the 1700s, with the Bom Jesus Elevator being added 100 years later. It’s Portugal’s oldest funicular, and the oldest example in the world which uses water as it’s counterweight.

The 10th century city of Guimaraes is a mere youngster in comparison to Braga, although it is considered to be the birthplace of the Kingdom of Portugal. Its UNESCO-protected centre is a dizzying maze of narrow medieval passageways and cobbled pavements – most homes are built from tough granite three stories high, with exaggerated eaves and pretty wrought-iron balconies, often decorated with the day’s laundry.

Guimaraes is a treasure trove of artifacts and landmarks dating back to the formation of Portugal – the preserved Paco dos Duques, the ancestral home to the Royal House of Braganca, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Oliveira, which can trace its roots back to the year 949, and the Museu de Alberto Sampaio: home to the tunic worn by Dom Joao I at the Battle of Aljubarrota; victory established the country’s first royal dynasty: the House of Avis.

Overlooking the city, the Castelo de Guimaraes has a fairytale-feel; its stout construction and triangular merlons are more in keeping with the Moorish forts which dominated Portugal at the time of its construction. The castle was almost lost to 19th century city developers, keen to demolish the building and reuse the stone as paving for local roads. Thankfully, the local population saved castle, and it was declared a national monument in 1910. In the castle grounds, you’ll find the Igreja de Sao Miguel chapel…tucked into a corner of the chapel, you’ll find a font…the font which (legend says) was used to baptise Dom Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal.