Pousada Castelo Obidos
The Pousada Castelo Obidos’ long history pre-dates Portugal itself – a Muslim fortress stood on this same rocky hilltop in the 8th century, commanding the surrounding plains to the Atlantic Ocean beyond. Dom Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, was all too aware of its strategic importance; he captured Obidos during the Reconquista in 1148. Dom Dinis presented the town to his wife, Dona Isabel, as a wedding gift in the 13th century: the beginning of a close association between Obidos, the queens of Portugal, and the surrounding Casa das Rainhas royal estate.
The castle was severely damaged by the great earthquake of 1755 and subsequently fell into neglect – a conservation project began in 1948, with the aim of restoring Portugal’s lost castles, convents, and monasteries. The Castelo Obidos was the first of the historic ‘pousadas’ to be created, allowing guests the rather wonderful experience of sleeping inside a centuries-old fortress, surrounded by ancient stone walls and the quiet streets of Obidos.
Today’s 21st century hotel is divided between the original castle and a newer Casa do Castelo wing. The Casa rooms have the homely feel of a typical Obidos cottage, with their low ceilings and imposing timber beams. The older castle rooms are the more atmospheric, tucked behind thick masonry, with small windows and steep stairways which still reveal something of the building’s medieval origins. The Dom Dinis Suite inside one of the old keeps is arguably the most evocative room of all.
The restaurant is equally conscious of its historic surroundings and similarly proud of its roots, with a menu drawing on seasonal produce from across the old Casa das Rainhas royal estate. Traditional cooking techniques are embraced – from the one-pot ‘pucara’ recipes so beloved in nearby Alcobac – whilst familiar Portuguese recipes, such as the delicate brisa do lis desert from Leiria, are given a contemporary twist.
There’s a particular pleasure in staying here which you simply don’t get from visiting Obidos for the day – when the daytrippers have departed, the castle is your domain. And for all its historic grandeur, there’s still something rather homely about the pousada, which suits Obidos perfectly: centuries of history, quietly preserved and still being lived in.
