Cerdeira Schist Village
The Serra da Lousa mountain range is famous throughout Portugal for its Aldeias do Xisto. The ‘Schist Villages’ were a collection of remote farming communities, linked by their shared seclusion and a tough agricultural way of life. Schist is the local stone, used in the construction of homes, farm buildings, dry-stone walls and mountain roads throughout the region, helping the man-made to blend perfectly with the colours and shades of the surrounding oak forests.
An economic exodus saw younger generations relocate to cities like Lisbon and Porto to work and study – over time, the villages were left uninhabited and fell into disrepair. Thankfully, life has now returned: the last twenty-years years have seen a rise in rural tourism, and the descendants of the generations who left in the 20th century are now returning, to rebuild their old family homes for the 21st century.
The villages are now celebrated for their naturally slow pace of life, and their focus on preserving long-held and well-loved traditions: in the local architecture, in the cuisine of the region, and its art and handicrafts. They’re also popular overnighting spots for hikers exploring the Rota das Aldeias de Xisto trails – a network of walking routes which have evolved from forest paths that once connected the villages.
Cerdeira’s restoration began in 2000, with two families working to rebuild the derelict village using traditional techniques and materials: local stone, clay and native wood from the surrounding forest. Outside, the original architecture has been sympathetically restored – inside, the décor is a careful balance of old and new: designers from across Portugal have created artwork, ceramics, furniture, and even staircases and doors, to help the original character of the building sit in harmony with the 21st century comforts of home.
