Where to eat in Mindelo | By Imogen Lepere
As with many things in Mindelo, the food offers clues to Cape Verde’s fascinating past. The dishes served in the restaurants are a fusion of culinary influences, from west Africa, Portugal and Brazil.
The Cape Verde Archipelago was uninhabited until the Portuguese arrived in the late 15th-century. Initially, the Portuguese settlers used the land for growing sugar cane, though with less success than in Madeira because of the dry climate. Cape Verde’s real value became its standing as a trading post for enslaved people, who were mostly shipped out to Europe and the Americas. Brazil became part of a group of Portuguese colonised countries that were part of the ‘Colonial Pact’. This was an agreement to trade exclusively with Portugal, and Brazil’s position in this triangle of trade meant that they too left an indelible mark on the Cape Verde Islands.
Cape Verde gained independence in 1975 and, though Cape Verdeans are West African, the blend of Portuguese and Brazilian influences can still be found in the food, the dilapidated colonial buildings and the music
Mindelo’s Markets
Of a morning, the air of Praca Estrela is thick with the shouts of vendors selling mangos and the deeply savoury smell of cachupa (leftover bean and meat stew refried on a hot skillet and served with chorizo and an egg). It can be really fun to buy some lunchtime snacks, and sample some of the produce that is grown across Cape Verde.
Next to the marina on Avenue Marginal, Mercado De Peixe is a hive of activity. Fishermen haul fresh tuna, grouper and swordfish off their boats, where they are descaled in seconds by nimble-fingered women. In the heart of town, locals enjoy earthy espresso and pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) before work. And at any time of day, the smell of fresh fish sizzling over an open grill and sound of morna music blasting from an outdoor stereo is never far away…
Pastelaria Morabeza
This is a lovely bakery, often popular at breakfast time as they also sell some nice savoury dishes. They make a great cachupa, the traditional dish of Cape Verde (a broth with meat, corn and beans).The glass cabinet at this Portuguese pastry shop is always groaning with flaky croissant, pastel de nata, donuts, cookies and fresh bread. It’s a favourite with locals before and after work. The pastel-painted doors are opened in the early morning, and remain so until 10PM every night of the week. During the day, decent wifi and whirring ceiling fans make it the perfect place to catch up on some emails.
Avenida Baltasar Lopes da Silva 21A.
Cafe Verde
There’s always a cool breeze fluttering the net curtains of this cute cafe, which can be found on the second floor of the Municipal Market. It’s popular with the local arty crowd, who favour its wooden crates filled with vegetarian cookbooks, and hand thrown pottery cups. Tourists also frequent this place to make the most of the wifi. The menu is mostly vegetarian, and includes option such as salads and tuna burgers, as well as piquant tamarind juice and home-roasted coffee from Fogo island.
Rua da Luz-Mercado Municipal.
Marina Mindelo Bar
The fish croquettes and grogue (sugarcane rum) caipirinhas at this al fresco bar are great. However, the real draw is watching the sun sink behind the distant mountains of the neighbouring island of Santo Antao, and the live music from coladeira-zouk bands. Located on a floating pontoon overlooking the marina, it is understandably a favourite with sailors looking for a last knees up before crossing the Atlantic to the Caribbean.
Cais Alfandega Velha.
Mochin De Monte
A vital part of daily life for the residents of Mindelo is the kiosk in the middle of Praca Estrela. It’s clear that it is sewn into the very fabric of the city. There are four restaurants that serve well-priced versions of classics such as cachupa, feijoada or lentil stew. Fresh mango juice and addictive mini donuts rolled in strands of coconut are also popular. There’s little difference between the four but Mochin Do Monte just wins on friendliness. It’s run by an elderly couple who make a point of knowing all their regulars by name.
Praça Estrela.
- Main Header Image: SamualBorgesPhotography/Shutterstock.com
- Images within article: Imogen Lepere
