Shortly after 10am on Sunday 23 November 2014, Fogo volcano on Fogo island in Cape Verde started erupting, spewing lava from a fissure in the flank of Pico do Fogo. At (2829m), this volcanic cone is the highest point in Cape Verde.
Around 1000 residents were living in the crater of Cha das Caldeiras and had they felt earthquakes the night before the eruption. The vibrations were reported to worsen at around 8pm the night prior.
The lava from the volcano flowed steadily towards the village, gradually destroying 170 buildings over the 77 days of volcanic activity. Eventually, all of the residents agreed to be evacuated, despite their initial reluctance. The only road into the crater was also destroyed, along with around 2km square of agricultural land. Alongside the lava flows, there were spectacular explosions, lava fountains, and ash emissions. An ash plume from the eruption was visible from Praia on Santiago and reached 6km in altitude. The eruption from this volcano finally ceased on 8 February 2015.
The locals slowly returned to the caldeira and made great efforts to re-build their destroyed houses again. With remarkable resilience and determination they made the most of what the lava had wiped away. Mustafa and Marisa from Casa Marisa, for example, chose a different spot and, with the help of structural engineers, built their new home and B&B Casa Marisa II. The result is a unique B&B with floors so hot that you can’t walk around barefoot! It’s great for drying your towels and wet clothing though, simply drop them on the floor! Nights in the caldeira can get quite cold, and the stone floors provide natural underfloor heating. Though you may have to sleep with your door and windows open, to let the cool breeze in. With virtually no light pollution, it is also the perfect place to watch the amazing starry sky at night from the comfort of your bed.
Another B&B that has made the most of the lava is Casa David. The owners decided to make a feature of the lava flow and their dining room now features a finger of lava that looks like a sleeping dragon.
Since the beginning of 2016 it is possible to climb the volcano, Pico do Fogo again, but only if you’re accompanied by a guide. It’s a fantastic challenge and the landscape is just unreal. The descent is much easier than the upward effort of gaining the summit, because you can run down the soft ashy slopes.
If you fancy walking up to the summit of Fogo Volcano and want to know a little more, have a read of Max’s travel Guide: Summiting Fogo Volcano. Or ring and have a chat with Max or Jake, who have both been and can describe it in enthusiastic details for you: team@archipelagochoice.com.
