Whale watching in Baja California – A most intimate experience.
I headed out to Baja California for a whale watching experience, but also because I wanted to explore a lesser-known destination. Baja California is a peninsula, a mountainous finger of cactus covered land that is separated from the mainland of Mexico by the sea of Cortez. The seas here are crystal clear and beautifully turquoise, and on every boat outing we were rewarded with incredible sites, like the Gray whales, Osprey and Pelicans. Baja California offered so much more than I could have dreamed of so, to give you an idea of what to expect, I thought I’d share a little snippet of my experiences with you.
From La Paz to San Ignacio
It feels like a long drive from Loreto and La Paz to San Ignacio. As we head north the scenery changes and creates new dimension to the journey. From the town, we will take a boat trip to San Ignacio Lagoon, one of the best places on the peninsula to see the Gray whales. I’ve heard that the majority of the worlds Gray whale population come here every spring, to birth and nurse their young. Their journey southwards from the Arctic is the longest migration of any mammal and we’re incredibly excited to be here their arrival.
The roads out of La Paz are flat and straight, but within a few hours we’re driving through mountain ranges, and along rugged coastlines with turquoise seas. San Ignacio is small, sleepy oasis town with a fresh water lagoon, used to irrigate the surrounding area. This creates a flash of green in the arid desert landscape.
A town of artists – San Ignacio Town
The small town of San Ignacio has a colourful tree-lined square. There are a few cafes and restaurants, and lost of locally crafted souvenirs to peruse. The town is a popular stopping off place for people heading north and south. However, there is another reason for travellers to stop here, because San Ignacio has a secret which few know of: the Laguna San Ignacio. When the Gray whales migrate to Baja’s lagoons from January to April, this area becomes one of the best places in the world to observe female Gray whales and their calves.
Kuyima Eco Camp
As we approach the coast the landscape is flat. It’s sandy with salty pools that fill up as the tide moves in and out. You notice a salty taste to the air and glimpse ospreys as they head off, talons outstretched to catch their next fishy meal. Turning off the sealed road, we head towards one of several eco style camps overlooking the lagoon. Each camp offers simple cabin style accommodation, generally set around a communal meeting area.
We stay at Kuyima camp.This is a local community camp with eco values that are obvious from the moment of our arrival. We were immediately made to feel at home, and the working of the camp and was explained to us (including the eco loos), as well as what to expect from our two days of whale watching. The cabins are raised with 2 single beds and clean linen. They prove to be pleasantly cool in the evening, thanks to the lovely pacific breeze.
After breakfast is served, details the days activities are explained to our eager group. Our safety is clearly paramount, and the welfare of the Gray whale’s takes top priory. We are handed life vests and head to board the small fishermen’s boats, which take us out to sea. The boats comfortably hold 8 to 12 people, along with skipper and marine biologist. There is a sense of excitement onboard as everyone wants to be first to spot a whale. A whale’s blow is soon sighted and we turn in the direction of our first encounter; a mother with calf. The boat slows and what happens next is quite unbelievable!!
Our first Close up with a Gray Whale
This huge female Gray whale starts to push her calf towards our boat. The skipper instructs us to put out hands in the water and splash. This appears to give the young grey whale calf some confidence and its long, bow shaped head comes along side. We gently stroke the young whales head. To our amazement, the young whale pushes his head further out of the water appearing to relish the intimacy.
After a few minutes the whale moves away, only to return with the encouragement of its mother. It’s hard to truly describe the experience. It’s like nothing I’ve ever experienced before. And this isn’t the exception. This type of interaction is something that happens on a daily basis in certain lagoons along Baja’s Pacific coastline. There is no doubt in my mind that whale watching in Baja California is one of the most special experiences I’ve had. I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy a lifetime of travelling and this trip has been a highlight.
We travelled with Archipelago Choice . Our Gray whale trip wasn’t staged, as the young whales genuinely sort out human interaction. This was perhaps the most amazing wildlife experience we’re ever had.
A few helpful pointers to a great trip.
- The best time to go is January through to April
- We would recommend enjoying multiple wildlife experiences, though the Gray whales were a highlight.
- We found the roads to be reasonable, though avoid driving out of towns at night, due to cattle on the roads
- Accommodation is limited, so we would recommend booking well in advance
If you’d like to know more, please contact:
00 44 (0)17687 21040
: team@archipelagochoice.com
